🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.